Talk:Teensy++ 2.0: Difference between revisions
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== NANDway = | =Permanent install notes= | ||
* Solder 3.3V regulator on Teensy (and cut 5V pad) | *Problem - When trying to install a .PUP the installation stops at 16% with the error code '''0x8002F14E''' (it can also happen when trying to install a .PUP with a teensy temporally connected to the PS3) | ||
**Theory - when reading the nor, not a problem, because nor data line pins are output pins driven by the nor. when writing to the nor, data line pins are input pins driven by southbridge.. not enough current to drive the led | |||
**Solution - Remove the led, alternativelly cut the LED trace, or disconnect D6 wire | |||
= NANDway = | |||
WARNING: Do not use an AMS1117 regulator! This will cause a short due to the different pinout and will damage your teensy, and potentially melt the USB cable! | |||
* Solder 3.3V regulator on Teensy (and cut 5V pad) | |||
* Flash the HEX to the Teensy | * Flash the HEX to the Teensy | ||
* Solder all control + I/O wires + Ground | * Solder all control + I/O wires + Ground | ||
Line 7: | Line 13: | ||
* Dump it | * Dump it | ||
=== Notes | == Onboard Regulator alternatives == | ||
On [http://www.pjrc.com/store/mcp1825.html PJRC] they recommend/sell the MCP1825, a SOT223 package lowdrop regulator of 500mA with fixated 3.3V output. If for some reason you want another fixated SOT223, but with a bit more current (ofcourse maximum power is limited by the bus used for feeding, e.g. one USB 2.0 port is normally limited to 2.5W), you might consider these: | |||
* 3.3V / 1000mA | |||
** MCP1826S-3302E/DB or MCP1826T-3302E/DC | |||
** MIC37100-3.3WS | |||
== External Powering Notes == | |||
<judges> nand powered with 3.3v by atx doesnt work | <judges> nand powered with 3.3v by atx doesnt work | ||
<judges> nand powered by teensy requires huge delays to work kind of reliable | <judges> nand powered by teensy requires huge delays to work kind of reliable | ||
Line 18: | Line 30: | ||
<judges> 2v-2.5v works fine | <judges> 2v-2.5v works fine | ||
<judges> stops working at 2.8v | <judges> stops working at 2.8v | ||
<judges> it seems to be kind of variable.. <@eussNL> 1.5Amps at 2.5V is more than enough, right judges ? | |||
<judges> using my version of nandway you'll need [email protected] | |||
<judges> using the original one you'll need [email protected] | |||
<judges> my version drives i/o lines differently | |||
<judges> also original doesnt even work at 2.5V | |||
<judges> 1.7V still works fine for both versions and only takes max 1.2A | |||
<judges> as i said, original version doesnt work at 2.5v | |||
<judges> 2.2v max | |||
== 1.65V / 1.8V / 2.5V - 1.5A regulators == | |||
* http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm1086.pdf | |||
* http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps75325.pdf | |||
* http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/3015fb.pdf | |||
* http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/NCP59150-D.PDF | |||
* http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0f82/0900766b80f82671.pdf | |||
= NORway Mac OS-X patch = | |||
if you are on Mac OS-X and having problems with timeouts: | |||
<MikeM64> hahaha, it's a dirty fix, but it seems to work XD | |||
<MikeM64> lemme compile diffs, I got perfect writes happening on my mac now | |||
<MikeM64> 10 writes and 2 timeouts; not bad. better than 20 timeouts / write | |||
<MikeM64> http://pastie.org/8570558 if anyone needs it | |||
= to wikify = | |||
http://www.ps3hax.net/showpost.php?p=573027&postcount=820 | |||
http://www.ps3hax.net/showpost.php?p=576130&postcount=843 | |||
http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=25408 | |||
http://www.psx-place.com/forum/downgrading/trick-teensy-2-0-nor-flashing-norway-write-perfirmware-data-2476.html#post19255 | |||
https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki and https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/1790-there-any-better-joystick-ms-sidewinder-force-feedback-2/page-5#entry286373 | |||
= Panel mount USB connectors and cables = | |||
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/usb_pinout.shtml | |||
http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/mini-USB_pinout.shtml | |||
*'''Mini USB B male''' to '''USB B female''' panel mount | |||
**PROS - Easy to find, very cheap, "USB B female" is the one used in the first USB printers | |||
**CONS - "USB B female" is a bit bulky | |||
*'''Mini USB B male''' to '''Mini USB B female''' panel mount | |||
**PROS - Small size | |||
**CONS - Very hard to find | |||
*'''Mini USB B female conector''', bayonet type panel mount | |||
**PROS - perfect look of the work made in the PS3 case, looks like factory | |||
**CONS - very expensive, hard to find, you need to solder your own cables in it | |||
*'''Mini USB B Male to Mini USB B Female''' extension cable | |||
**PROS - Easy to find, very cheap | |||
**CONS - Is not for panel mounting, but you can make your own guetto adapter for mounting it in a panel |
Latest revision as of 23:31, 13 August 2017
Permanent install notes[edit source]
- Problem - When trying to install a .PUP the installation stops at 16% with the error code 0x8002F14E (it can also happen when trying to install a .PUP with a teensy temporally connected to the PS3)
- Theory - when reading the nor, not a problem, because nor data line pins are output pins driven by the nor. when writing to the nor, data line pins are input pins driven by southbridge.. not enough current to drive the led
- Solution - Remove the led, alternativelly cut the LED trace, or disconnect D6 wire
NANDway[edit source]
WARNING: Do not use an AMS1117 regulator! This will cause a short due to the different pinout and will damage your teensy, and potentially melt the USB cable!
- Solder 3.3V regulator on Teensy (and cut 5V pad)
- Flash the HEX to the Teensy
- Solder all control + I/O wires + Ground
- Crash it (it will beep and blink red led), press power button to have a solid red led
- Make sure to use the right nand id for nandway.py
- Dump it
Onboard Regulator alternatives[edit source]
On PJRC they recommend/sell the MCP1825, a SOT223 package lowdrop regulator of 500mA with fixated 3.3V output. If for some reason you want another fixated SOT223, but with a bit more current (ofcourse maximum power is limited by the bus used for feeding, e.g. one USB 2.0 port is normally limited to 2.5W), you might consider these:
- 3.3V / 1000mA
- MCP1826S-3302E/DB or MCP1826T-3302E/DC
- MIC37100-3.3WS
External Powering Notes[edit source]
<judges> nand powered with 3.3v by atx doesnt work <judges> nand powered by teensy requires huge delays to work kind of reliable <judges> teensy powered by usb, nand powered by external psu with 2v works like a charm.. <judges> thats why nandway worked for me.. it's slow. my own version is almost twice as fast and only worked on my first nand. second one always gave errors.. <judges> powered by teensy seems to be right on the edge of whats still working <judges> but only with 10ms delays between page reads.. <judges> current power draw is 1.13amps at 2v <judges> nand control lines are pulled high by starship and teensy isnt able to pull them low <judges> 2v-2.5v works fine <judges> stops working at 2.8v
<judges> it seems to be kind of variable.. <@eussNL> 1.5Amps at 2.5V is more than enough, right judges ? <judges> using my version of nandway you'll need [email protected] <judges> using the original one you'll need [email protected] <judges> my version drives i/o lines differently <judges> also original doesnt even work at 2.5V <judges> 1.7V still works fine for both versions and only takes max 1.2A <judges> as i said, original version doesnt work at 2.5v <judges> 2.2v max
1.65V / 1.8V / 2.5V - 1.5A regulators[edit source]
- http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm1086.pdf
- http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps75325.pdf
- http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/3015fb.pdf
- http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/NCP59150-D.PDF
- http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/0f82/0900766b80f82671.pdf
NORway Mac OS-X patch[edit source]
if you are on Mac OS-X and having problems with timeouts:
<MikeM64> hahaha, it's a dirty fix, but it seems to work XD <MikeM64> lemme compile diffs, I got perfect writes happening on my mac now <MikeM64> 10 writes and 2 timeouts; not bad. better than 20 timeouts / write <MikeM64> http://pastie.org/8570558 if anyone needs it
to wikify[edit source]
http://www.ps3hax.net/showpost.php?p=573027&postcount=820
http://www.ps3hax.net/showpost.php?p=576130&postcount=843
http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=25408
https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki and https://forum.il2sturmovik.com/topic/1790-there-any-better-joystick-ms-sidewinder-force-feedback-2/page-5#entry286373
Panel mount USB connectors and cables[edit source]
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/usb_pinout.shtml
http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/mini-USB_pinout.shtml
- Mini USB B male to USB B female panel mount
- PROS - Easy to find, very cheap, "USB B female" is the one used in the first USB printers
- CONS - "USB B female" is a bit bulky
- Mini USB B male to Mini USB B female panel mount
- PROS - Small size
- CONS - Very hard to find
- Mini USB B female conector, bayonet type panel mount
- PROS - perfect look of the work made in the PS3 case, looks like factory
- CONS - very expensive, hard to find, you need to solder your own cables in it
- Mini USB B Male to Mini USB B Female extension cable
- PROS - Easy to find, very cheap
- CONS - Is not for panel mounting, but you can make your own guetto adapter for mounting it in a panel