Power Supply: Difference between revisions

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= Power Supply Unit (PSU) =  
= Power Supply Unit (PSU) =  
All the PS3 models have a built in universal power supply and supports multivoltage (except some PS3 FAT models with power supplies [[LSEB1226B1]], [[LSEB1254A1]] or [[APS-227]] that are rated as 220-240V input, so cant operate with voltages under 220V). What this means is that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3, the PS3 can actually be plugged into any voltage anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct cable). Therefore, if you opened up the PS3, the supported voltages should be stated (on the power supply) as 100V-240V, which is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country range for all power outlets in the world].
Most PS3 models have a universal (multi-voltage) built-in power supply (some PS3 FAT models have [[LSEB1226B1]], [[LSEB1254A1]] or [[APS-227]] power supplies that are rated as 220-240V input only and cannot operate correctly with voltages under 220V). This means that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3 if it has a universal PSU it can actually be plugged in anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct power cable), if you open up a PS3 the supported voltages should be listed on the power supply as 100V-240V which is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country range for all power outlets in the world] if it has a universal PSU.


== PSU Model @ SKU compatiblity ==
== PSU Model @ SKU compatibility ==
=== Retail models ===
=== Retail models ===
*As seen in the table below, the PS3 takes 100V-240V AC (with exception of [[APS-227]], [[LSEB1226B1]] and [[LSEB1254A1]]) at various amps (A) from your power socket, and converts this to two DC (Direct Current) voltages of 12V, and 5V (or 5.5V for later PS3 models) at various amps.
*As seen in the table below, the PS3 takes 100V-240V AC (with exception of [[APS-227]], [[LSEB1226B1]] and [[LSEB1254A1]]) at various amps (A) from your power socket, and converts this to two DC (Direct Current) voltages of 12V, and 5V (or 5.5V for later PS3 models) at various amps.
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|-
|-
! [[EADP-300AB]]
! [[EADP-300AB]]
| 1-474-084-11 ||  ||  ||  || rowspan="3" | (1)acdc_stby<BR />(2)gnd<BR />(3)5vsb || rowspan="5" | 2x plane plugs<BR /><small>Length=22 mm<BR />Width=4.5 mm<BR />Thickness=1.25 mm<BR /><abbr title="distance between the plugs at their centres">Pitch</abbr>=9 mm</small> || 100V-240V 3.6-1.5A 50/60Hz || {{round|77.678571429|1}}-{{round|79.166666667|1}}% || [[CECHHxx|H]] || [[CECHHxx|H]]
| 1-474-084-11 ||  ||  ||  || rowspan="3" | (1)acdc_stby<BR />(2)gnd<BR />(3)5vsb || rowspan="5" | 2x plane plugs<BR /><small>Length=22 mm<BR />Width=4.5 mm<BR />Thickness=1.25 mm<BR /><abbr title="distance between the plugs at their centres">Pitch</abbr>=9 mm</small> || 100V-240V 3.6-1.5A 50/60Hz || {{round|77.678571429|1}}-{{round|79.166666667|1}}% || [[CECHHxx|H]], [[CECHQxx|Q]]|| [[CECHHxx|H]], [[CECHQxx|Q]]
|-
|-
! [[APS-239]]
! [[APS-239]]
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|-
|-
! [[APS-240]]
! [[APS-240]]
| 1-474-126-11 ||  || APS-240 || 1-887-678-22 || rowspan="11" | (1)5vsb<BR />(2)gnd<BR />(3)acdc_stby<BR />(4)acin_det || 100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz || rowspan="11" | 5.5V 0.9A<BR />(4.95W) || rowspan="2" | 12V 21A<BR />(252W) || rowspan="2" | 256.95W || {{round|76.458333333|1}}-{{round|77.863636364|1}}% || rowspan="2" | [[CECHLxx|L]], [[CECHMxx|M]], [[CECHPxx|P]], [[CECHQxx|Q]] || rowspan="2" | [[CECHLxx|L]], [[CECHMxx|M]], [[CECHPxx|P]], [[CECHQxx|Q]]
| 1-474-126-11 ||  || APS-240 || 1-887-678-22 || rowspan="12" | (1)5vsb<BR />(2)gnd<BR />(3)acdc_stby<BR />(4)acin_det || 100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz || rowspan="12" | 5.5V 0.9A<BR />(4.95W) || rowspan="2" | 12V 21A<BR />(252W) || rowspan="2" | 256.95W || {{round|76.458333333|1}}-{{round|77.863636364|1}}% || rowspan="2" | [[CECHLxx|L]], [[CECHMxx|M]], [[CECHPxx|P]] || rowspan="2" | [[CECHLxx|L]], [[CECHMxx|M]], [[CECHPxx|P]]
|-
|-
! [[EADP-260BB]]
! [[EADP-260BB]]
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|-
|-
! [[APS-306]]
! [[APS-306]]
| 1-474-339-11 ||  || APS-306 MB || 1-884-580-21 || rowspan="2" | 2x plane plugs<BR /><small>Length=22 mm<BR />Width=2 mm<BR />Thickness=0.6 mm<BR /><abbr title="distance between the plugs at their centres">Pitch</abbr>=6.75 mm</small> || 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz || rowspan="5" | 12V 13A<BR />(156W) || rowspan="5" | 160.95W || {{round|74.513888889|1}}-{{round|80.475|1}}% || [[CECH-30xx|30]] || [[CECH-30xx|30]]
| 1-474-339-11 ||  || APS-306 MB || 1-884-580-21 || rowspan="2" | 2x plane plugs<BR /><small>Length=22 mm<BR />Width=2 mm<BR />Thickness=0.6 mm<BR /><abbr title="distance between the plugs at their centres">Pitch</abbr>=6.75 mm</small> || 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz || rowspan="6" | 12V 13A<BR />(156W) || rowspan="6" | 160.95W || {{round|74.513888889|1}}-{{round|80.475|1}}% || [[CECH-30xx|30]] || [[CECH-30xx|30]]
|-
|-
! [[EADP-185AB]]
! [[EADP-185AB]]
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|-
|-
! [[ADP-160AR]]
! [[ADP-160AR]]
| 1-474-400-11 ||  || ADP-160AR AA ||  || rowspan="3" | 2x plane plugs<BR /><small>Length=18 mm<BR />Width=1.6 mm<BR />Thickness=0.6 mm<BR /><abbr title="distance between the plugs at their centres">Pitch</abbr>=7 mm</small> || 100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz || {{round|76.642857143|1}}-{{round|83.828125|1}}% || [[CECH-40xx|40]] || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]]
| 1-474-400-11 ||  || ADP-160AR AA ||  || rowspan="4" | 2x plane plugs<BR /><small>Length=18 mm<BR />Width=1.6 mm<BR />Thickness=0.6 mm<BR /><abbr title="distance between the plugs at their centres">Pitch</abbr>=7 mm</small> || 100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz || {{round|76.642857143|1}}-{{round|83.828125|1}}% || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]] || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]]
|-
|-
! [[APS-330]]
! [[APS-330]]
| 1-<abbr title="There is something weird related with this 490, it should be 474">490</abbr>-468-11 ||  || APS-330 MB || 1-866-716-11 || 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz || {{round|74.513888889|1}}-{{round|80.475|1}}% || [[CECH-40xx|40]] || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]]
| 1-<abbr title="There is something weird related with this 490, it should be 474">490</abbr>-468-11 ||  || APS-330 MB || 1-866-716-11 || 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz || {{round|74.513888889|1}}-{{round|80.475|1}}% || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]] || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]]
|-
! [[APS-330/B]]
| 1-<abbr title="There is something weird related with this 490, it should be 474">490</abbr>-468-21 ||  || APS-330/B MB || 1-888-480-21 || 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz ||  || [[CECH-43xx|43]] || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]]
|-
|-
! [[N12-160P1A]]
! [[N12-160P1A]]
| 1-474-548-11 ||  ||  ||  || 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz || {{round|74.513888889|1}}-{{round|80.475|1}}% || || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]]
| 1-474-548-11 ||  ||  ||  || 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz || {{round|74.513888889|1}}-{{round|80.475|1}}% || ? || [[CECH-40xx|40]], [[CECH-42xx|42]], [[CECH-43xx|43]]
|-
|-
|}
|}
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=== Replacing the PSU ===  
=== Replacing the PSU ===  


<span style="color:#FF0000;">The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power, and also produce less heat.</span> Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. <span style="color:#FF0000;">The second criteria is to try to find the highest efficiency model that still satisfies the proper output power that your PS3 is rated for.</span>
<span style="color:#FF0000;">The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power and produce less heat.</span> Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. <span style="color:#FF0000;">The second is to try to find the highest efficiency model that still satisfies the proper output power that your PS3 is rated for.</span>
<br>
<br>
As a general rule all power supplies (not just the ones in PS3s) are most efficient at approximately 50% load, this is why almost all PSU models in the chart are rated for roughly twice what the PS3 draws under full load. EG. A CECHA/B draws approximately 200-220W when under full load using an APS-226, this power draw number is slightly higher when using the original ZSSR PSU which also runs notably warmer due to the fact that it is less efficient and therefore converts more of the energy into waste heat.
As a general rule, all power supplies (not just the ones in PS3s) are most efficient at approximately 50% load, this is why almost all PSU models in the chart are rated for roughly twice what the PS3 draws under full load. EG. A CECHA/B draws approximately 200-220W when under full load using an APS-226, this power draw number is slightly higher when using the original ZSSR PSU which also runs notably warmer because it is less efficient and converts more of the energy into waste heat.


WARNING: if you decide to replace your power supply, you do it at your own risk! If you don't know what you are doing, you may fry your motherboard.
WARNING: if you decide to replace your power supply, you do it at your own risk! If you don't know what you are doing, you may fry your motherboard.
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::<span style="color:#FF0000;">note: more discussion on the talk page. [[Talk:Power Supply]]</span>
::<span style="color:#FF0000;">note: more discussion on the talk page. [[Talk:Power Supply]]</span>


<!--/ (there is a report of APS-270 compatible with [[CECH-30xx]] with force)... this doesnt seems to be possible, compare the air intakes in the PSU's used in CECH-30xx series with the air intakes in all the other PSU's in slim models CECH-20xx, CECH-21xx, CECH-25xx... are different so doesnt fits with the air tunnel/heatsink cover --~~~~ -->
<!--/ (there is a report of APS-270 compatible with [[CECH-30xx]] with force)... this doesn't seems to be possible, compare the air intakes in the PSU's used in CECH-30xx series with the air intakes in all the other PSU's in slim models CECH-20xx, CECH-21xx, CECH-25xx... are different so doesn't fit with the air tunnel/heatsink cover --~~~~ -->


=== Externalising the PSU ===  
=== Externalising the PSU ===  
This is usefull for tests, repairs, flashing, etc... (as a [http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Powering power source tool] used temporally), or permanently with the purpose of reducing heat inside the PS3 case to avoid overheatings
This is useful for tests, repairs, flashing, etc... (as a [http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Powering power source tool] used temporally), or permanently to reduce heat inside the PS3's case to avoid overheating


For a permanent install is <span style="color:#FF0000;">highly suggested</span> to purchase plugs and/or sockets that will fit with the PSU and motherboard to create a proper power cable adaptor. Remember that normally inside the console the fan also gave the PSU a slight airflow, so is <span style="color:#FF0000;">highly suggested</span> to add a fan also to your externall PSU (although it wont have to run fast, its just to make sure heat does not accumulate).
For a permanent install is <span style="color:#FF0000;">highly suggested</span> to purchase connectors that will fit the PSU and motherboard to create a proper power cable adaptor. Remember that inside the console the fan also gives the PSU some airflow, so it is <span style="color:#FF0000;">highly recommended</span> to add a fan to your external PSU to make sure the PSU doesn't get too hot (it does not have to spin very fast just enough to keep the internal temperatures constant and low enough to not cause damage).


The correct thick of the wires needed for the 12v plugs depends of the number of amperes (A) the PSU provides in the 12v rail, if you want to "play safe" the best idea is to exceed this requirement of the thickness of the wires by a lot (consider the full amperes of the 12v rail will travel along this wires, this is not the same case than a PC where the total amperes assigned to the 12v rail are divided in a lot of yellow wires so are thinner than we need for a PS3). As an example, oldest PS3 PSU's with 32A can use AWG10 wires, and newers with 13A can use AWG16 wires, for other intermediate models you can take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes (the value of the "ampacity" column)
The correct thickness of the wires needed for the 12v plugs depends on the number of amperes (A) the PSU provides on the 12v rail, if you want to "play it safe" a good idea is to exceed this requirement by a lot (considering the full amperes of the 12v rail will travel along these wires, this is not the same case with a PC where the total amperes assigned to the 12v rail are divided in a lot of yellow wires so they are thinner than we need for a PS3). As an example, the oldest PS3 PSU's with 32A can use AWG10 wires, and newer PSU's with 13A can use AWG16 wires, for other intermediate models you can take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes (the value of the "ampacity" column)


Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative! (use a tester in continuity, and meassure wich plug is connected to the border of the PSU board, border is always ground), after identifying it you can use a permanent black pen to mark it to avoid forgiving it
Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative! (use a tester in continuity, and measure which plug is connected to the border of the PSU board, the border is always ground), after identifying it you can use a permanent black pen to mark it to avoid forgiving it


Also ensure the connections are solid and or have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.
Also, ensure the connections are solid and have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.


If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the console will have a red standby light but will not power on
If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the red standby light will light up but the console will not power on


*'''Twisted wires (the guetto style, no connectors)'''
*'''Twisted wires (the ghetto style, no connectors)'''
The way this is done is very simple, get a cable with a moderately thick AWG (Same thickness as a 110v/220v power cable) and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative cables, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU (PSU's always has female connectors, cilindricall in FAT and plane in slim and superslim, is basically a hole where you can plug anything, even a cable without connector) and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3
This is very simple, get a thick cable like a 110v/220v power cable and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative wires, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU (PSU's always have female connectors, cylindrical in FAT models and plain in slim and super slim models, this is basically a hole you can plug anything into, even a cable without a connector) and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3's motherboard


<Gallery>
<gallery>
File:Ax2bY.jpg|Testing the voltage of a PSU with twisted cables (no connectors)
File:Ax2bY.jpg|Testing the voltage of a PSU with twisted cables (no connectors)
</Gallery>
</gallery>


*'''Alligator clips (temporal)'''
*'''Alligator clips (temporary)'''
Alligator clips grabs anything with strengh (and good ones has a plastic cover that covers all the clip after grabbing to avoid shorcuts), are good but should be considered temporal
Alligator clips grab anything with strength (and good ones have a plastic cover that covers up the clip after grabbing to avoid short circuits), are good but should be considered temporary


<Gallery>
<gallery>
File:M5UGg.jpg|A PSU from a CECH-21xx PS3 externally wired to a CECH-30xx PS3, using an adaptor made with "alligator clips"
File:M5UGg.jpg|A PSU from a CECH-21xx PS3 externally wired to a CECH-30xx PS3, using an adaptor made with "alligator clips"
File:Plug2.jpg|"Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard
File:Plug2.jpg|"Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard
File:Plugz.jpg|"Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard, connected to a PS3 FAT PSU
File:Plugz.jpg|"Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard, connected to a PS3 FAT PSU
</Gallery>
</gallery>


*'''Banana plugs (permanent for PS3 FAT)'''
*'''Banana plugs (permanent for PS3 FAT)'''
Perfect for PS3 FAT PSU's, use 4.5 milimeter "banana plug" ones, you can attach them to a wire permanently by using pliers and pressure
Perfect for PS3 FAT PSU's, use 4.5 millimeter "banana plug" ones, you can attach them to a wire permanently with a pair of pliers


<Gallery>
<gallery>
File:Plug1.jpg|4,5 milimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)
File:Plug1.jpg|4,5 millimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)
File:Plug22.jpg|"Banana plugs" connected to a PS3 FAT PSU
File:Plug22.jpg|"Banana plugs" connected to a PS3 FAT PSU
</Gallery>
</gallery>


*'''Faston terminals (permanent for PS3 Slim and superslim)
*'''Faston terminals (permanent for PS3 Slim and superslim)
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=== RY101 ===
=== RY101 ===
Relais for 12V line
Relays for 12V line


=== Thermal Fuses ===
=== Thermal Fuses ===
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==== PFC +B ADJ (RV301) ====
==== PFC +B ADJ (RV301) ====
next to relais RY101
next to relays RY101
connected to 14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636"
connected to 14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636"
  <jordosaxman> RV301  has 3 points, 1 of them goes to the solder point, one goes to the tiny resistor above it labeled 153
  <jordosaxman> RV301  has 3 points, 1 of them goes to the solder point, one goes to the tiny resistor above it labeled 153
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==== OCP ADJ (RV302) ====
==== OCP ADJ (RV302) ====
Over Current Protection Adjustment (dont mess with this one) <br />
Over Current Protection Adjustment (DO NOT TOUCH THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING) <br />
Connected to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"
Connected to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"


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= Travel Transformers =
= Travel Transformers =
Don't use an external transformer! Use only a passive travelplug, quote from the PS3 manuals:
DO NOT use an external transformer! Use only a passive travel plug, quote from the PS3 manuals:


:''Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an autmobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.''
:''Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an automobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.''


= Sources, external links =
= Sources, external links =
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* XP Power supply Tech Guide - http://www.epowerco.com/Xp_Power_supply_Tech_Guide.pdf
* XP Power supply Tech Guide - http://www.epowerco.com/Xp_Power_supply_Tech_Guide.pdf


{{Components}}<noinclude>[[Category:Main]]</noinclude>
{{Components}}<noinclude>
[[Category:Main]]
</noinclude>

Latest revision as of 06:37, 16 February 2024

Power Supply Unit (PSU)[edit | edit source]

Most PS3 models have a universal (multi-voltage) built-in power supply (some PS3 FAT models have LSEB1226B1, LSEB1254A1 or APS-227 power supplies that are rated as 220-240V input only and cannot operate correctly with voltages under 220V). This means that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3 if it has a universal PSU it can actually be plugged in anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct power cable), if you open up a PS3 the supported voltages should be listed on the power supply as 100V-240V which is the range for all power outlets in the world if it has a universal PSU.

PSU Model @ SKU compatibility[edit | edit source]

Retail models[edit | edit source]

  • As seen in the table below, the PS3 takes 100V-240V AC (with exception of APS-227, LSEB1226B1 and LSEB1254A1) at various amps (A) from your power socket, and converts this to two DC (Direct Current) voltages of 12V, and 5V (or 5.5V for later PS3 models) at various amps.
  • Watts = Volts * Amps (you are billed for total watts used over time by your local power provider)
PS3 Power Supply Units
Power Supply Unit Power Supply Internal Board Power Rating PS3 model Compatibility
Model Part Number Weight Model Part Number Control Conn. 12V Rail Conn. Input (AC) Output (DC) Cumulative Efficiency Found in Compatible with
ZSSR539IA 1-474-036-11 815gr (1)acdc_stby
(2)gnd
(3)gnd
(4)5vsb
(5)5vsb		 2x cylindrical plugs
Length=18 mm
Diameter=3.5 mm
Pitch=12mm		 100V-240V 6.0A 50/60Hz 5V 3A
(15W)		 12V 32A
(384W)		 399W 66.5% A, B, E A, B, C, E
APS-226 1-474-037-11 770gr APS-226 M 100V-240V 4.8-2.0A 50/60Hz 83.13% A, B, E A, B, C, E
APS-227 1-474-046-11 900gr APS-227 M 1-872-990-11 220V-240V 2.2A 50/60Hz 75.6-82.4% C C
LSEB1226A1 1-474-059-11 LSJB1226-1 100V-240V 4.8-2.2A 50/60Hz 12V 31A
(372W)		 387W 70.5-80.6% C C, E
APS-231 1-474-073-11 700gr APS-231 M 1-874-541-12 100V-240V 3.5-1.5A 50/60Hz 5V 0.6A
(3W)		 12V 23.5A
(282W)		 285W 79.2-81.4% G A, B, E, G
LSEB1226B1 1-474-074-11 700gr 220V-240V 1.7-1.6A 50/60Hz 74.2-76.2% G A, B, E, G
LSEB1254A1 1-474-081-11 700gr 220V-240V 1.7-1.6A 50/60Hz 74.2-76.2% G A, B, E, G
EADP-300AB 1-474-084-11 (1)acdc_stby
(2)gnd
(3)5vsb		 2x plane plugs
Length=22 mm
Width=4.5 mm
Thickness=1.25 mm
Pitch=9 mm		 100V-240V 3.6-1.5A 50/60Hz 77.7-79.2% H, Q H, Q
APS-239 1-474-087-11 APS-239 M 1-875-950-11 100V-240V 3.5-1.5A 50/60Hz 79.2-81.4% H, K H, K
EADP-260AB 1-474-104-11 EADP-260AP A 2941040002 100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz 12V 21.5A
(258W)		 261W 79.09% J, K H, K
APS-240 1-474-126-11 APS-240 1-887-678-22 (1)5vsb
(2)gnd
(3)acdc_stby
(4)acin_det		 100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz 5.5V 0.9A
(4.95W)		 12V 21A
(252W)		 256.95W 76.5-77.9% L, M, P L, M, P
EADP-260BB 1-474-129-11 600gr EADP-260BP A 2941042404 100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz 76.5-77.9%
EADP-220BB 1-474-175-11 442gr EADP-220BP A 2941047904 2x plane plugs
Length=20 mm
Width=3.5 mm
Thickness=1 mm
Pitch=8 mm		 100V-240V 3.2-1.2A 50/60Hz 12V 18A
(216W)		 220.95W 69-76.7% 20 20, 21, 25
APS-250 1-474-177-xx APS-250 MB 1-879-919-xx 100V-240V 2.7-1.2A 50/60Hz 76.7-81.8%
APS-270 1-474-216-11 384gr APS-270 MB 1-881-752-xx 100V-240V 2.5-1.1A 50/60Hz 12V 16A
(192W)		 196.95W 74.6-78.8% 21, 25 21, 25 (not 20)
EADP-200DB 1-474-217-xx 415gr EADP-200DP A 2941053505 100V-240V 2.6-1.0A 50/60Hz 75.8-82.1%
APS-306 1-474-339-11 APS-306 MB 1-884-580-21 2x plane plugs
Length=22 mm
Width=2 mm
Thickness=0.6 mm
Pitch=6.75 mm		 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz 12V 13A
(156W)		 160.95W 74.5-80.5% 30 30
EADP-185AB 1-474-340-11 382gr EADP-185AP A 100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz 76.6-83.8% 30 30
ADP-160AR 1-474-400-11 ADP-160AR AA 2x plane plugs
Length=18 mm
Width=1.6 mm
Thickness=0.6 mm
Pitch=7 mm		 100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz 76.6-83.8% 40, 42, 43 40, 42, 43
APS-330 1-490-468-11 APS-330 MB 1-866-716-11 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz 74.5-80.5% 40, 42, 43 40, 42, 43
APS-330/B 1-490-468-21 APS-330/B MB 1-888-480-21 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz 43 40, 42, 43
N12-160P1A 1-474-548-11 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz 74.5-80.5% ? 40, 42, 43

NonRetail models[edit | edit source]

PS3 Reference Tool Power Supply Units
Power Supply Unit Power Supply Internal Board Power Rating PS3 model Compatibility
Model Part Number Weight Model Part Number Connectors Input (AC) Output (DC) Cumulative Efficiency Found in Compatible with
ZSSR541iB 1-474-032-21 24p, 22p, 100V-240V 9.5-4A 50/60Hz 5V(Sub) 1.6A
(8W)		 3.3V 23A
(75.9W)		 5V 8.2A
(41W)		 12V 31.2A
(374.4W)		 499.3W 52.56% DECR-1000A, DECR-1000J DECR-1000A, DECR-1000J
DECR-1010A, DECR-1010J DECR-1010A, DECR-1010J
APS-231 1-474-073-11 700gr APS-231 M 1-874-541-12 2p, 5p 100V-240V 3.5-1.5A 50/60Hz 12V 23.5A
(282W)		 5V 0.6A
(3W)		 285W 79.2-81.4% DECR-1400A, DECR-1400J DECR-1400A, DECR-1400J

Modifications and Repairs[edit | edit source]

Replacing the PSU[edit | edit source]

The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power and produce less heat. Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. The second is to try to find the highest efficiency model that still satisfies the proper output power that your PS3 is rated for.
As a general rule, all power supplies (not just the ones in PS3s) are most efficient at approximately 50% load, this is why almost all PSU models in the chart are rated for roughly twice what the PS3 draws under full load. EG. A CECHA/B draws approximately 200-220W when under full load using an APS-226, this power draw number is slightly higher when using the original ZSSR PSU which also runs notably warmer because it is less efficient and converts more of the energy into waste heat.

WARNING: if you decide to replace your power supply, you do it at your own risk! If you don't know what you are doing, you may fry your motherboard.

note: more discussion on the talk page. Talk:Power Supply


Externalising the PSU[edit | edit source]

This is useful for tests, repairs, flashing, etc... (as a power source tool used temporally), or permanently to reduce heat inside the PS3's case to avoid overheating

For a permanent install is highly suggested to purchase connectors that will fit the PSU and motherboard to create a proper power cable adaptor. Remember that inside the console the fan also gives the PSU some airflow, so it is highly recommended to add a fan to your external PSU to make sure the PSU doesn't get too hot (it does not have to spin very fast just enough to keep the internal temperatures constant and low enough to not cause damage).

The correct thickness of the wires needed for the 12v plugs depends on the number of amperes (A) the PSU provides on the 12v rail, if you want to "play it safe" a good idea is to exceed this requirement by a lot (considering the full amperes of the 12v rail will travel along these wires, this is not the same case with a PC where the total amperes assigned to the 12v rail are divided in a lot of yellow wires so they are thinner than we need for a PS3). As an example, the oldest PS3 PSU's with 32A can use AWG10 wires, and newer PSU's with 13A can use AWG16 wires, for other intermediate models you can take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes (the value of the "ampacity" column)

Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative! (use a tester in continuity, and measure which plug is connected to the border of the PSU board, the border is always ground), after identifying it you can use a permanent black pen to mark it to avoid forgiving it

Also, ensure the connections are solid and have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.

If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the red standby light will light up but the console will not power on

  • Twisted wires (the ghetto style, no connectors)

This is very simple, get a thick cable like a 110v/220v power cable and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative wires, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU (PSU's always have female connectors, cylindrical in FAT models and plain in slim and super slim models, this is basically a hole you can plug anything into, even a cable without a connector) and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3's motherboard

  • Testing the voltage of a PSU with twisted cables (no connectors)

    Testing the voltage of a PSU with twisted cables (no connectors)

  • Alligator clips (temporary)

Alligator clips grab anything with strength (and good ones have a plastic cover that covers up the clip after grabbing to avoid short circuits), are good but should be considered temporary

  • A PSU from a CECH-21xx PS3 externally wired to a CECH-30xx PS3, using an adaptor made with "alligator clips"

    A PSU from a CECH-21xx PS3 externally wired to a CECH-30xx PS3, using an adaptor made with "alligator clips"

  • "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard

    "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard

  • "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard, connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

    "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard, connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

  • Banana plugs (permanent for PS3 FAT)

Perfect for PS3 FAT PSU's, use 4.5 millimeter "banana plug" ones, you can attach them to a wire permanently with a pair of pliers

  • 4,5 millimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)

    4,5 millimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)

  • "Banana plugs" connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

    "Banana plugs" connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

Adapting other PSU[edit | edit source]

Convert PS3 3pin power supply to 4pin[edit | edit source]

Here is the explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pas1oQYaBLI

PC PSU to PS3 adaptors[edit | edit source]

Pins/Parts[edit | edit source]

CN1[edit | edit source]

AC input

CN101[edit | edit source]

PSU Control pins

PS3 Slim PSU connector
CN101













CN201[edit | edit source]

PSU Control pins

CN102[edit | edit source]

12v plugs (faston plane plugs)

CN202[edit | edit source]

12v plugs (faston plane plugs)

Fuse[edit | edit source]

F101 (T8AH AC250V) Have opened a LSEB1226B1 power supply and this has a 6.3A 250V fuse just in from the external mains power feed. Elsewhere on the board is PR201, a 5A 250V part.

RY101[edit | edit source]

Relays for 12V line

Thermal Fuses[edit | edit source]

THP101, THP201

Potmeters[edit | edit source]

PFC +B ADJ (RV301)[edit | edit source]

next to relays RY101 connected to 14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636" 

<jordosaxman> RV301  has 3 points, 1 of them goes to the solder point, one goes to the tiny resistor above it labeled 153
<jordosaxman> the third point is buried, no trace points on the top side, must go to the bottom
<jordosaxman> yeah it looks like RV301 hits a resistor and then goes to pin 3 of IC303

OCP ADJ (RV302)[edit | edit source]

Over Current Protection Adjustment (DO NOT TOUCH THIS UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING)
Connected to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"

Fmin ADJ (RV303)[edit | edit source]

next to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"

PFC Freq ADJ (RV304)[edit | edit source]

Connected to 16pin IC301 "uc3854dw # 6bm14ew"


ICs[edit | edit source]

IC301[edit | edit source]

16pin IC301 "uc3854dw # 6bm14ew"

IC303[edit | edit source]

14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636"

IC305[edit | edit source]

16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"


PH[edit | edit source]

PH101[edit | edit source]

5vsb reg "NEC"

PH201[edit | edit source]

5VSB latch "NEC"

Travel Transformers[edit | edit source]

DO NOT use an external transformer! Use only a passive travel plug, quote from the PS3 manuals:

Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an automobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.

Sources, external links[edit | edit source]

Motherboards
Fat (nand)
Fat (nor)
Slim (nor)
Super Slim (nor/eMMC)
Harddrives
Fujitsu
Hitachi
Seagate
Toshiba
Bluray Drive
Drive
BD-400 · BD-410 · BD-450 · BD-460 · BD-470
Laser
Slide
BD Daughterboards
Motorsensorboards
Sensorboards
Lidsensorboards
Power Supply
Sony
Delta
Panasonic
Nichicon
Chicony
Cooling
Fans
14 cm (fat)
10 cm (slim 2XXX)
8 cm (slim 3XXX)
7.35 cm (super slim 4XXX)
Heatsinks
type 1 · type 2 · type 3 · type 4 · type 5 · type 6 · type 7
Other Boards
Wifi/BT (WI/WB)
Boards
Components
Boards
Components
Boards
Components
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