Talk:Power Supply

PSU compatiblity critisism

The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power, and also produce less heat.

The second criteria is to try to find the lowest input amp and lowest output amp that works with your PS3 model (for APS models, this means the higher the model number, the better).

The above is wrong in stating that:

• The output rating is a measurement for how much power the PSU itself uses (e.g. its efficiency)
• That it is better to get a PSU that has a lower rating which has littler headroom

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I came here to say this and was glad to see someone else already brought the matter up. A lower rated PSU would in fact be worse if it couldn't supply sufficient amperage under certain conditions. In those cases, you could see unexpected behavior such as freezing, corruption and even intermittent YLOD.

Newer PS3s are more efficient than the original design. As a result, newer model PSUs have a lower rating as the PS3 hardware itself is not as demanding.

In most cases, you'll want a PSU rated at least the same as the one that was included with the PS3. Going with a higher rating would be optional, with the caveat that the PSU may generate a higher level of heat. Going with a lower rating should be discouraged.

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Gap vs. Pitch

Gap is the space measured between 2 pins, while pitch is measured from pin center to pin center