Power Supply

Power Supply Unit (PSU)

All the PS3 models have a built in universal power supply and supports multivoltage (except some PS3 FAT models with power supplies LSEB1226B1, LSEB1254A1 or APS-227 that are rated as 220-240V input, so cant operate with voltages under 220V). What this means is that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3, the PS3 can actually be plugged into any voltage anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct cable). Therefore, if you opened up the PS3, the supported voltages should be stated (on the power supply) as 100V-240V, which is the range for all power outlets in the world.

PSU Model @ SKU compatiblity

• As seen in the table below, the PS3 takes 100V-240V AC (with exception of APS-227, LSEB1226B1 and LSEB1254A1) at various amps (A) from your power socket, and converts this to two DC (Direct Current) voltages of 12V, and 5V (or 5.5V for later PS3 models) at various amps.
• Watts = Volts * Amps (you are billed for total watts used over time by your local power provider)

PS3 Power Supply Units

Power Supply Unit			Power Supply Internal Board				Power			Rating		PS3 model Compatibility
Model	Part Number	Weight	Model	Part Number	Controll Pins	12v Plugs	Input (AC)	Output (DC)		Cumulative	Efficiency	Found in	Compatible with
ZSSR5391A	1-474-036-11	815gr			5	2x cylindrical plugs lenght=18 mm Ø=4,5 mm	100V-240V 6.0A 50/60Hz	12V 32A (384W)	5V 3A (15W)	399W	66.5%	A, B, E	A, B, E
APS-226	1-474-037-11	770gr	APS-226 M				100V-240V 4.8-2.0A 50/60Hz				83.13%	A, B, E	A, B, E
APS-227	1-474-046-11	900gr	APS-227 M	1-872-990-11			220V-240V 2.2A 50/60Hz				75.6-82.4%	C	C
LSEB1226A1	1-474-059-11		LSJB1226-1				100V-240V 4.8-2.2A 50/60Hz	12V 31A (372W)	5V 3A (15W)	387W	70.5-80.6%	C	C, E
APS-231	1-474-073-11	700gr	APS-231 M	1-874-541-12			100V-240V 3.5-1.5A 50/60Hz	12V 23.5A (282W)	5V 0.6A (3W)	285W	79.2-81.4%	G	A, B, E, G
LSEB1226B1	1-474-074-11	700gr					220V-240V 1.7-1.6A 50/60Hz				74.2-76.2%	G	A, B, E, G
LSEB1254A1	1-474-081-11	700gr					220V-240V 1.7-1.6A 50/60Hz				74.2-76.2%	G	A, B, E, G
EADP-300AB	1-474-084-11				3	2x plane plugs ? same than slim ?	100V-240V 3.6-1.5A 50/60Hz				77.7-79.2%	H	H
APS-239	1-474-087-11		APS-239 M	1-875-950-11			100V-240V 3.5-1.5A 50/60Hz					H, K	H, K
EADP-260AB	1-474-104-11		EADP-260AP A	2941040002			100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz	12V 21.5A (258W)	5V 0.6A (3W)	261W	79.09%	J, K	H, K (Some L)
APS-240	1-474-126-11		APS-240	1-887-678-22	4		100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz	12V 21A (252W)	5.5V 0.9A (4.95W)	256.95W	76.5-77.9%	L	L, P
EADP-260BB	1-474-129-11	600gr	EADP-260BP A	2941042404			100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz				76.5-77.9%
EADP-220BB	1-474-175-11	442gr	EADP-220BP A	2941047904		2x plane plugs length=20 mm width=3,5 mm thick=1 mm	100V-240V 3.2-1.2A 50/60Hz	12V 18A (216W)	5.5V 0.9A (4.95W)	220.95W	69-76.7%	20	20, 21, 25
APS-250	1-474-177-11/12		APS-250 MB	1-879-919-11/12/21			100V-240V 2.7-1.2A 50/60Hz				76.7-81.8%	20	20, 21, 25
APS-270	1-474-216-11	384gr	APS-270 MB	1-881-752-12/21			100V-240V 2.5-1.1A 50/60Hz	12V 16A (192W)	5.5V 0.9A (4.95W)	196.95W	74.6-78.8%	21, 25	20, 21, 25
EADP-200DB	1-474-217-11/12	415gr	EADP-200DP A	2941053505			100V-240V 2.6-1.0A 50/60Hz				75.8-82.1%	21, 25	20, 21, 25
APS-306	1-474-339-11		APS-306 MB	1-884-580-21			100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz	12V 13A (156W)	5.5V 0.9A (4.95W)	160.95W	74.5-80.5%	30	30
EADP-185AB	1-474-340-11	382gr	EADP-185AP A				100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz				76.6-83.8%	30	30
ADP-160AR	1-474-400-11		ADP-160AR AA			?	100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz				76.6-83.8%	40	40
APS-330	1-490-468-11		APS-330 MB	1-866-716-11		?	100V-240V 2.3-0.8A 50/60Hz				70-83.8%	40	40

Modifications and Repairs

Replacing the PSU

The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power, and also produce less heat. Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. The second criteria is to try to find the lowest input amp and lowest output amp that works with your PS3 model (for APS models, this means the higher the model number, the better). WARNING: if you decide to replace your power supply, you do it at your own risk! If you don't know what you are doing, you may fry your motherboard.

note: there is strong criticism to above statement, see Talk:Power Supply

Externalising the PSU

This is usefull for tests, repairs, flashing, etc... (as a power source tool used temporally), or permanently with the purpose of reducing heat inside the PS3 case to avoid overheatings

For a permanent install is highly suggested to purchase plugs and/or sockets that will fit with the PSU and motherboard to create a proper power cable adaptor. Remember that normally inside the console the fan also gave the PSU a slight airflow, so is highly suggested to add a fan also to your externall PSU (although it wont have to run fast, its just to make sure heat does not accumulate).

The correct thick of the wires needed for the 12v plugs depends of the number of amperes (A) the PSU provides in the 12v rail, if you want to "play safe" the best idea is to exceed this requirement of the thickness of the wires by a lot (consider the full amperes of the 12v rail will travel along this wires, this is not the same case than a PC where the total amperes assigned to the 12v rail are divided in a lot of yellow wires so are thinner than we need for a PS3). As an example, oldest PS3 PSU's with 32A can use AWG10 wires, and newers with 13A can use AWG16 wires, for other intermediate models you can take a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes (the value of the "ampacity" column)

Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative! (use a tester in continuity, and meassure wich plug is connected to the border of the PSU board, border is always ground), after identifying it you can use a permanent black pen to mark it to avoid forgiving it

Also ensure the connections are solid and or have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.

If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the console will have a red standby light but will not power on

• Twisted wires (the guetto style, no connectors)

The way this is done is very simple, get a cable with a moderately thick AWG (Same thickness as a 110v/220v power cable) and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative cables, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU (PSU's always has female connectors, cilindricall in FAT and plane in slim and superslim, is basically a hole where you can plug anything, even a cable without connector) and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3

• 

  Testing the voltage of a PSU with twisted cables (no connectors)

• Alligator clips (temporal)

Alligator clips grabs anything with strengh (and good ones has a plastic cover that covers all the clip after grabbing to avoid shorcuts), are good but should be considered temporal

• 

  A PSU from a CECH-21xx PS3 externally wired to a CECH-30xx PS3, using an adaptor made with "alligator clips"

• 

  "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard

• 

  "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard, connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

• Banana plugs (permanent for PS3 FAT)

Perfect for PS3 FAT PSU's, use 4.5 milimeter "banana plug" ones, you can attach them to a wire permanently by using pliers and pressure

• 

  4,5 milimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)

• 

  "Banana plugs" connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

• Faston terminals (permanent for PS3 Slim and superslim)
• http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3KnTgXGlGMY/TEArx0iJfcI/AAAAAAAAAdg/Ws0QQL9u2YY/s1600/Terminal+Faston.jpg
• http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_3KnTgXGlGMY/TEArqwrNavI/AAAAAAAAAdY/5ajtYm0072o/s1600/Terminal+Faston+1.jpg

Pins/Parts

CN1

AC input

CN101

PSU Control pins

Fuse

F101 (T8AH AC250V)

RY101

Relais for 12V line

Thermal Fuses

THP101, THP201

Potmeters

PFC +B ADJ (RV301)

next to relais RY101 connected to 14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636"

<jordosaxman> RV301  has 3 points, 1 of them goes to the solder point, one goes to the tiny resistor above it labeled 153
<jordosaxman> the third point is buried, no trace points on the top side, must go to the bottom
<jordosaxman> yeah it looks like RV301 hits a resistor and then goes to pin 3 of IC303

OCP ADJ (RV302)

Over Current Protection Adjustment (dont mess with this one)
Connected to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"

Fmin ADJ (RV303)

next to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"

PFC Freq ADJ (RV304)

Connected to 16pin IC301 "uc3854dw # 6bm14ew"

ICs

IC301

16pin IC301 "uc3854dw # 6bm14ew"

IC303

14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636"

IC305

16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"

PH

PH101

5vsb reg "NEC"

PH201

5VSB latch "NEC"

Travel Transformers

Don't use an external transformer! Use only a passive travelplug, quote from the PS3 manuals:

Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an autmobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.

Sources, external links

• Generic PS3 PSU info - http://www.edepot.com/playstation3.html#PS3_Power_Supply
• PS3 PSU behavior details - http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=72332
• Slim PSU the real pinout - http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=58231
• Finalman's PS3PC case mod - http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=56243