Power Supply: Difference between revisions

From PS3 Developer wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search
(partially rewrited)
Line 1: Line 1:
= Power Supply Unit (PSU) =  
= Power Supply Unit (PSU) =  
All the PS3 models (except some early FAT with 220-240V single range only - there were no 100-127V single range powersupplies, see table below) have a built in universal power supply, and supports multivoltage. What this means is that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3, the PS3 can actually be plugged into any voltage anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct cable). Therefore, if you opened up the PS3, the supported voltages should be stated (on the power supply) as 100V-240V, which is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country range for all power outlets in the world].
All the PS3 models have a built in universal power supply and supports multivoltage (except some PS3 FAT models with power supplies [[LSEB1226B1]], [[LSEB1254A1]] or [[APS-227]] that are rated as 220-240V input, so cant operate with voltages under 220V). What this means is that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3, the PS3 can actually be plugged into any voltage anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct cable). Therefore, if you opened up the PS3, the supported voltages should be stated (on the power supply) as 100V-240V, which is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country range for all power outlets in the world].


== PSU Model @ SKU compatiblity ==
== PSU Model @ SKU compatiblity ==
*As seen in the table below, the PS3 takes 100V-240V AC (with exception of [[APS-227]], [[LSEB1226B1]] and [[LSEB1254A1]]) at various amps (A) from your power socket, and converts this to two DC (Direct Current) voltages of 12V, and 5V (or 5.5V for later PS3 models) at various amps.
*Watts = Volts * Amps (you are billed for total watts used over time by your local power provider)


{|class="wikitable"
{|class="wikitable"
Line 72: Line 74:
|}
|}


As seen from the above chart, the PS3 takes 100V-240V AC (with exception of [[APS-227]], [[LSEB1226B1]] and [[LSEB1254A1]]) at various amps (A) from your power socket, and converts this to two DC (Direct Current) voltages of 12V, and 5V (or 5.5V for later PS3 models) at various amps. <span style="color:#FF0000;">The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power, and also produce less heat.</span> Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. <span style="color:#FF0000;">The second criteria is to try to find the lowest input amp and lowest output amp that works with your PS3 model</span> (for APS models, this means the higher the model number, the better). WARNING: if you decide to replace your power supply, you do it at your own risk! If you don't know what you are doing, you may fry your motherboard.
== Modifications and Repairs ==
 
=== Replacing the PSU ===
 
<span style="color:#FF0000;">The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power, and also produce less heat.</span> Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. <span style="color:#FF0000;">The second criteria is to try to find the lowest input amp and lowest output amp that works with your PS3 model</span> (for APS models, this means the higher the model number, the better). WARNING: if you decide to replace your power supply, you do it at your own risk! If you don't know what you are doing, you may fry your motherboard.


::<span style="color:#FF0000;">note: there is strong criticism to above statement, see [[Talk:Power Supply]]</span>
::<span style="color:#FF0000;">note: there is strong criticism to above statement, see [[Talk:Power Supply]]</span>
Line 78: Line 84:
<!--/ (there is a report of APS-270 compatible with [[CECH-30xx]] with force)... this doesnt seems to be possible, compare the air intakes in the PSU's used in CECH-30xx series with the air intakes in all the other PSU's in slim models CECH-20xx, CECH-21xx, CECH-25xx... are different so doesnt fits with the air tunnel/heatsink cover --~~~~ -->
<!--/ (there is a report of APS-270 compatible with [[CECH-30xx]] with force)... this doesnt seems to be possible, compare the air intakes in the PSU's used in CECH-30xx series with the air intakes in all the other PSU's in slim models CECH-20xx, CECH-21xx, CECH-25xx... are different so doesnt fits with the air tunnel/heatsink cover --~~~~ -->


For those that are not aware: Volts * Amps = Total Watts used.
=== Externalising the PSU ===
You are billed for total watts used over time by your local power provider.
This is usefull for tests, repairs, flashing, etc... (as a [http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Powering power source tool] used temporally), or permanently with the purpose of reducing heat inside the PS3 case to avoid overheatings


For a permanent install is <span style="color:#FF0000;">highly suggested</span> to purchase plugs and/or sockets that will fit with the PSU and motherboard to create a proper power cable adaptor. Remember that normally inside the console the fan also gave the PSU a slight airflow, so is <span style="color:#FF0000;">highly suggested</span> to add a fan also to your externall PSU (although it wont have to run fast, its just to make sure heat does not accumulate).


A sample breakdown of the [[CECHJxx]] and later models finds a 261W Delta [[EADP-260AB]] power supply. It is fanless and all capacitors inside are made by Japanese companies: Chemi-Con, Rubycon, and Nichicon.
The correct thick of the wire needed for the 12v plugs depends of the number of watts the PSU provides in the 12v rail (there is a formula and a talk in ps3hax forum about this but i dont have the link now, hehe), if you want to "play safe" the best idea is to exceed this by a lot (consider the full watts of the 12v rail will travel along this wires, this is not the same case than a PC where the total watts assigned to the 12v rail are divided in a lot of yellow wires so are thinner than we need for a PS3)


Note that for PS3 Slim models ([[CECH-20xx]]), there is no ground wiring support.
Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative! (use a tester in continuity, and meassure wich plug is connected to the border of the PSU board, border is always ground), after identifying it you can use a permanent black pen to mark it to avoid forgiving it


source: http://www.edepot.com/playstation3.html#PS3_Power_Supply
Also ensure the connections are solid and or have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.
 
== Travel Transformers ==
Don't use an external transformer! Use only a passive travelplug, quote from the PS3 manuals:
 
:''Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an autmobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.''
 
== Modification / Repair ==


=== Externalising the PSU ===
*'''Method without connectors'''
This is very possible and is done by a lot of people whom think that having the PSU outside of the PS3 will prevent the YLOD.
The way this is done is very simple, get a cable with a moderately thick AWG (Same thickness as a 110v/220v power cable) and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative cables, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU (PSU's always has female connectors, cilindricall in FAT and plane in slim and superslim, is basically a hole where you can plug anything, even a cable without connector) and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3


However it is more useful when testing a stripped PS3 or confirming if the PSU is faulty etc. To the left is an image of a CECH-30xx externally wired to a CECH-21xx PSU in order to test if the original PSU was faulty and if the older model PSU would even power up the console.
If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the console will have a red standby light but will not power on


<div style="float:right">[[File:M5UGg.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Alligator clips and the plug from an old slim board used to externalise the PSU]]</div>
*'''Alligator clips'''
Alligator clips grabs anything with strengh (and good ones has a plstic cover that covers all the clip after grabbing to avoid shorcuts), are good but should be considered temporal


The way this is done is very simple, get a cable with a moderately thick AWG (Same thickness as a 110v/220v power cable) and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative cables, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3 (If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the console will have a red standby light but will not power on).
*'''Banana plugs'''
Perfect for PS3 FAT PSU's, use 4.5 milimeter "banana plug" ones, you can attach them to a wire permanently by using pliers and pressure


'''Note on permanent install:''' Highly suggested to purchase plugs and sockets that will fit with the PSU and motherboard connection and soldering them onto the power cable that was created. Remember that normally inside the console the main fan (on CPU/GPU) also gave the PSU a slight airflow, so you might want to add a fan also (although it wont have to run fast, its just to make sure heat does not accumulate).


<Gallery>
<Gallery>
File:Plug1.jpg
File:M5UGg.jpg|A PSU from a CECH-21xx PS3 externally wired to a CECH-30xx PS3, using an adaptor made with "alligator clips"
File:Plug2.jpg
File:Plug1.jpg|4,5 milimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)
File:Plugz.jpg
File:Plug22.jpg|"Banana plugs" connected to a PS3 FAT PSU
File:Plug22.jpg
File:Plug2.jpg|"Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard
File:Ax2bY.jpg
File:Plugz.jpg|"Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard, connected to a PS3 FAT PSU
File:Ax2bY.jpg|Testing the voltage of a PSU with twisted cables (no connectors)
</Gallery>
</Gallery>


The above images are for demonstration purposes only! <br>Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative! <br>
=== Adapting other PSU ===
Also ensure the connections are solid and or have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.
 
==== PC PSU to PS3 adaptors ====


== Pins/Parts ==
== Pins/Parts ==
Line 170: Line 173:
5VSB latch "NEC"
5VSB latch "NEC"


= Travel Transformers =
Don't use an external transformer! Use only a passive travelplug, quote from the PS3 manuals:
:''Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an autmobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.''
= Sources, external links =
* http://www.edepot.com/playstation3.html#PS3_Power_Supply


{{Components}}<noinclude>[[Category:Main]]</noinclude>
{{Components}}<noinclude>[[Category:Main]]</noinclude>

Revision as of 16:11, 29 July 2014

Power Supply Unit (PSU)

All the PS3 models have a built in universal power supply and supports multivoltage (except some PS3 FAT models with power supplies LSEB1226B1, LSEB1254A1 or APS-227 that are rated as 220-240V input, so cant operate with voltages under 220V). What this means is that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3, the PS3 can actually be plugged into any voltage anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct cable). Therefore, if you opened up the PS3, the supported voltages should be stated (on the power supply) as 100V-240V, which is the range for all power outlets in the world.

PSU Model @ SKU compatiblity

  • As seen in the table below, the PS3 takes 100V-240V AC (with exception of APS-227, LSEB1226B1 and LSEB1254A1) at various amps (A) from your power socket, and converts this to two DC (Direct Current) voltages of 12V, and 5V (or 5.5V for later PS3 models) at various amps.
  • Watts = Volts * Amps (you are billed for total watts used over time by your local power provider)
PS3 Power Supply Units
Power Supply Unit Power Supply Internal Board Power Rating PS3 model Compatibility
Model Part Number Weight Model Part Number Controll Pins 12v Plugs Input (AC) Output (DC) Cumulative Efficiency Found in Compatible with
ZSSR5391A 1-474-036-11 815gr 5 lenght=18 mm
Ø=4,5 mm		 100V-240V 6.0A 50/60Hz 12V 32A
(384W)		 5V 3A
(15W)
399W		 66.5% A, B, E A, B, E
APS-226 1-474-037-11 770gr APS-226 M 5 100V-240V 4.8-2.0A 50/60Hz 83.13% A, B, E A, B, E
APS-227 1-474-046-11 900gr APS-227 M 1-872-990-11 5 220V-240V 2.2A 50/60Hz 75.6-82.4% C C
LSEB1226A1 1-474-059-11 LSJB1226-1 5 100V-240V 4.8-2.2A 50/60Hz 12V 31A
(372W)		 5V 3A
(15W)
387W		 70.5-80.6% C C, E
APS-231 1-474-073-11 700gr APS-231 M 1-874-541-12 5 100V-240V 3.5-1.5A 50/60Hz 12V 23.5A
(282W)		 5V 0.6A
(3W)
285W		 79.2-81.4% G A, B, E, G
LSEB1226B1 1-474-074-11 700gr 5 220V-240V 1.7-1.6A 50/60Hz 74.2-76.2% G A, B, E, G
LSEB1254A1 700gr 5 220V-240V 1.7-1.6A 50/60Hz 74.2-76.2% G A, B, E, G
EADP-300AB 1-474-084-11 3 100V-240V 3.6-1.5A 50/60Hz 77.7-79.2% H H
APS-239 1-474-087-11 APS-239 M 1-875-950-11 4 100V-240V K H, K
EADP-260AB 1-474-104-11 EADP-260AP A 2941040002 3 100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz 12V 21.5A
(258W)		 5V 0.6A
(3W)
261W		 79.09% J, K H, K (Some L)
APS-240 1-474-126-11 APS-240 1-887-678-22 4 100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz 12V 21A
(252W)		 5.5V 0.9A
(4.95W)
256.95W		 76.5-77.9% L L, P
EADP-260BB 1-474-129-11 600gr EADP-260BP A 2941042404 4 100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz 76.5-77.9%
EADP-220BB 1-474-175-11 415gr EADP-220BP A 2941047904 4 length=20 mm
width=3,5 mm
thick=1 mm		 100V-240V 3.2-1.2A 50/60Hz 12V 18A
(216W)		 5.5V 0.9A
(4.95W)
220.95W		 69-76.7% 20 20, 21, 25
APS-250 1-474-177-11/12 APS-250 MB 1-879-919-11/12/21 4 100V-240V 2.7-1.2A 50/60Hz 76.7-81.8% 20 20, 21, 25
APS-270 1-474-216-11 APS-270 MB 1-881-752-12/21 4 100V-240V 2.5-1.1A 50/60Hz 12V 16A
(192W)		 5.5V 0.9A
(4.95W)
196.95W		 74.6-78.8% 21, 25 20, 21, 25
EADP-200DB 1-474-217-11/12 415gr EADP-200DP A 2941053505 4 100V-240V 2.6-1.0A 50/60Hz 75.8-82.1% 21, 25 20, 21, 25
APS-306 1-474-339-11 APS-306 MB 1-884-580-21 4 100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz 12V 13A
(156W)		 5.5V 0.9A
(4.95W)
160.95W		 74.5-80.5% 30 30
EADP-185AB 1-474-340-11 EADP-185AP A 4 100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz 76.6-83.8% 30 30
ADP-160AR 1-474-400-11 ADP-160AR AA ? 100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz 76.6-83.8% 40 40
APS-330 1-490-468-11 APS-330 MB 1-866-716-11 ? 100V-240V 2.3-0.8A 50/60Hz 70-83.8% 40 40

Modifications and Repairs

Replacing the PSU

The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power, and also produce less heat. Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. The second criteria is to try to find the lowest input amp and lowest output amp that works with your PS3 model (for APS models, this means the higher the model number, the better). WARNING: if you decide to replace your power supply, you do it at your own risk! If you don't know what you are doing, you may fry your motherboard.

note: there is strong criticism to above statement, see Talk:Power Supply


Externalising the PSU

This is usefull for tests, repairs, flashing, etc... (as a power source tool used temporally), or permanently with the purpose of reducing heat inside the PS3 case to avoid overheatings

For a permanent install is highly suggested to purchase plugs and/or sockets that will fit with the PSU and motherboard to create a proper power cable adaptor. Remember that normally inside the console the fan also gave the PSU a slight airflow, so is highly suggested to add a fan also to your externall PSU (although it wont have to run fast, its just to make sure heat does not accumulate).

The correct thick of the wire needed for the 12v plugs depends of the number of watts the PSU provides in the 12v rail (there is a formula and a talk in ps3hax forum about this but i dont have the link now, hehe), if you want to "play safe" the best idea is to exceed this by a lot (consider the full watts of the 12v rail will travel along this wires, this is not the same case than a PC where the total watts assigned to the 12v rail are divided in a lot of yellow wires so are thinner than we need for a PS3)

Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative! (use a tester in continuity, and meassure wich plug is connected to the border of the PSU board, border is always ground), after identifying it you can use a permanent black pen to mark it to avoid forgiving it

Also ensure the connections are solid and or have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.

  • Method without connectors

The way this is done is very simple, get a cable with a moderately thick AWG (Same thickness as a 110v/220v power cable) and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative cables, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU (PSU's always has female connectors, cilindricall in FAT and plane in slim and superslim, is basically a hole where you can plug anything, even a cable without connector) and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3

If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the console will have a red standby light but will not power on

  • Alligator clips

Alligator clips grabs anything with strengh (and good ones has a plstic cover that covers all the clip after grabbing to avoid shorcuts), are good but should be considered temporal

  • Banana plugs

Perfect for PS3 FAT PSU's, use 4.5 milimeter "banana plug" ones, you can attach them to a wire permanently by using pliers and pressure


  • A PSU from a CECH-21xx PS3 externally wired to a CECH-30xx PS3, using an adaptor made with "alligator clips"

    A PSU from a CECH-21xx PS3 externally wired to a CECH-30xx PS3, using an adaptor made with "alligator clips"

  • 4,5 milimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)

    4,5 milimeters "banana plug" male terminals (for PS3 FAT PSU's)

  • "Banana plugs" connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

    "Banana plugs" connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

  • "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard

    "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard

  • "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard, connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

    "Alligator clips" grabbing the original plugs ripped from a PS3 FAT motherboard, connected to a PS3 FAT PSU

  • Testing the voltage of a PSU with twisted cables (no connectors)

    Testing the voltage of a PSU with twisted cables (no connectors)

Adapting other PSU

PC PSU to PS3 adaptors

Pins/Parts

CN101

AC input

Fuse

F101 (T8AH AC250V)

RY101

Relais for 12V line

Thermal Fuses

THP101, THP201

Potmeters

PFC +B ADJ (RV301)

next to relais RY101 connected to 14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636" 

<jordosaxman> RV301  has 3 points, 1 of them goes to the solder point, one goes to the tiny resistor above it labeled 153
<jordosaxman> the third point is buried, no trace points on the top side, must go to the bottom
<jordosaxman> yeah it looks like RV301 hits a resistor and then goes to pin 3 of IC303

OCP ADJ (RV302)

Over Current Protection Adjustment (dont mess with this one)
Connected to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"

Fmin ADJ (RV303)

next to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"

PFC Freq ADJ (RV304)

Connected to 16pin IC301 "uc3854dw # 6bm14ew"


ICs

IC301

16pin IC301 "uc3854dw # 6bm14ew"

IC303

14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636"

IC305

16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"


PH

PH101

5vsb reg "NEC"

PH201

5VSB latch "NEC"

Travel Transformers

Don't use an external transformer! Use only a passive travelplug, quote from the PS3 manuals:

Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an autmobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.

Sources, external links

Motherboards
Fat (nand)
Fat (nor)
Slim (nor)
Super Slim (nor/eMMC)
Harddrives
Fujitsu
Hitachi
Seagate
Toshiba
Bluray Drive
Drive
BD-400 · BD-410 · BD-450 · BD-460 · BD-470
Laser
Slide
BD Daughterboards
Motorsensorboards
Sensorboards
Lidsensorboards
Power Supply
Sony
Delta
Panasonic
Nichicon
Chicony
Cooling
Fans
14 cm (fat)
10 cm (slim 2XXX)
8 cm (slim 3XXX)
7.35 cm (super slim 4XXX)
Heatsinks
type 1 · type 2 · type 3 · type 4 · type 5 · type 6 · type 7
Other Boards
Wifi/BT (WI/WB)
Boards
Components
Boards
Components
Boards
Components
Retrieved from "http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/index.php?title=Power_Supply&oldid=29336"