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In most cases, you'll want a PSU rated at least the same as the one that was included with the PS3. Going with a higher rating would be optional, with the caveat that the PSU may generate a higher level of heat. Going with a lower rating should be discouraged.
In most cases, you'll want a PSU rated at least the same as the one that was included with the PS3. Going with a higher rating would be optional, with the caveat that the PSU may generate a higher level of heat. Going with a lower rating should be discouraged.


== Power and heat testing methodology ==
Things to take note of before doing any testing<br>
1. The voltage your country uses, this can be seen on most wattage meters by simply pressing the Voltage button. In North America and Japan this will likely be between 100-120V. For the rest of the world the voltage will likely be between 200-240V<br>
2. The ambient temperature of the room must be measured either at the end of the testing or throughout the entire test<br>
Testing methods:<br>
1. Choose if you want to do all of the testing for the console in the horizontal or the vertical orientation.<br>
2. Set the fan speed to a single number and note down what that number is, if you would like to do the testing with the syscon fan profile just make sure to note that down as "syscon default profile"<br>
3. Make sure to set the console in an area where: <br>
a. it is not in direct sunlight<br>
b. it is not being heated or cooled by any objected like a fan or a heater<br>
c. it has at least 2 feet (~60CM) of distance between the console and any other objects<br>
4. Determine which game you will be using, and if the power measurements you get are consistent across multiple runs of the same area in game<br>
eg: A race in GT6 may draw more power than the exact same race replayed using the in game replay tool.<br>
eg: GTA 4 or GTA 5 may draw more or less power when driving down the same street due to a difference in the number of cars or pedestrians on screen at any one time.


== Max Power ratings ==
== Max Power ratings ==
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==How it works==
==How it works==
<div style="float:right">[[File:SlimPSU-pinout.jpg|210px|thumb|right|CN101 4-pin connectors]]<br />[[File:SYSCON_SWx_JTP-001_JSD-001_HSW-001_CN101.jpg|210px|thumb|right|Syscon connections to PSU and to switch board]]</div>
===Slims===
===Slims===
Based on a CECH-25xx... probably the same for all PS3 models using the 4 pins "CN101" PSU connector. See: http://www.ps3hax.net/showthread.php?t=58231
Based on a CECH-25xx... probably the same for all PS3 models using the 4 pins "CN101" PSU connector http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/File:SlimPSU-pinout.jpg


*You plug PS3 power cord to one of your house wallplugs
*You plug PS3 power cord to one of your house wallplugs
**PSU switches on the 5v power rail and converts 100V-240V (input) to 5.5V 0.9A ('''4.95W''' output) and are sent to PS3 motherboard through '''CN101 pin 1 (5VSB)'''
**Power is converted 100V-240V (PSU input) to 5.5V 0.9A ('''4.95W''' PSU output) and sent to PS3 motherboard with CN101 pin 1 ('''5V''')
**This 5v are converted to '''3.3v''' and are sent to syscon, syscon checks PSU through '''CN101 pin 4 (ACIN_DET)''', if there is a voltage in it (around 5v) the PSU is confirmed working normally (<abbr title="if there is no voltage in this pin the PS3 refuses to be turned ON">otherway the PSU is faulty</abbr>)
**This 5v are sent to the "swich board" (with the primary purpose of monitoring the ON/OFF button... and the secondary purpose of feeding the red/green leds if needed)
**Syscon turns on the red led next to the ON/OFF button to show the user that the PS3 has entered in "Standby" mode (but the fact is syscon was working in "standby" an step before at the time it does a check to the PSU)
**This 5v are convertet to 3.3v and sent to syscon that enters in standby mode, syscon turns on the led next to ON/OFF button in red color
**Syscon checks the CN101 pin 4 ('''ACIN_DET'''), if there is a voltage in it (around 5v) the PSU is confirmed working normally (otherway if there is no voltage in this pin the PS3 stays in standaby forever and refuses to be turned ON)


*So everything is ready... now you press the ON button with your finger in the switch board
*So everything is ready... now you press the ON button with your finger in the switch board
**By pressing ON/OFF button a syscon pin is grounded, syscon changes his operation mode from "standby" to "active" (this is speculative, but most probably), turns off the red led next to the ON/OFF button and turns on the green led instead
**By pressing the ON/OFF button a syscon pin is grounded... then syscon sends another control signal using CN101 pin 3 ('''ACDC_STBY''') to the PSU
**Syscon sends a '''3.3v''' control signal to the PSU through '''CN101 pin 3 (ACDC_STBY)''', while this signal is enabled the PSU 12v rail <abbr title="otherway if at some point this signal is disabled the 12v power rail is switched off">is enabled</abbr>
**PSU switches on the 12v power rail and converts 100V-240V (PSU input) to 12V 16A ('''192W''' PSU output) and is sent to PS3 motherboard by a single "plug" (that metal pillars located vertically on the PS3 motherboard intended to enter inside the PSU)
**PSU switches on the 12v power rail and converts 100V-240V (input) to 12V 16A ('''192W''' output) and is sent to PS3 motherboard by a single "plug" (that metal pillars located vertically on the PS3 motherboard intended to enter inside the PSU)
**Syscon changes his operation mode from "standby" to "active" (this is speculative, but most probably), turns off the red led next to the ON/OFF button and lights the green led instead
**The whole motherboard is powered, PS3 turns ON
**The whole motherboard is powered, PS3 turns ON
==ATX to PS3==
===Basic (for tests)===
How to connect a PC ATX PSU to a PS3 slim for tests with only 3 wires
{{#ev:youtube|x4_5wJL0jwI}}
*Pros:
**The schematic used in the video is electrically perfect
*Cons:
**A single wire of a ATX PSU (most probably) is not designed to carry 12v@16A... so the plastic cover of the wire and the connector/s are going to warm up and eventually melt, creating a shorcut and posible damage in the PSU and PS3
===Advanced (to use permanently)===
*Problems needed to solve:
**The 12v/gnd problem mentioned above. To avoid this problem you need to check the wire code that usually is printed in it (and google it) to see how much max Amps it allows... incase this amount is not enought for your PS3 motherboard requirements (16A for a CECH-25xx) you need to "twist" several wires together, and this wires needs to belong to the same rail inside the PSU (so you need to open the ATX PSU to check which yellow ones are soldered together to choose that ones)
**The signal sent by syscon to the original PSU (to switch on the 12v rail) is 3.3v, but an ATX PSU is turned on by grounding the green wire of ther ATX connector, the way to solve this involves using <abbr title="syscon connected to the transistor base (to open/close it), ATX green wire to the transistor collector, and the transistor emitter to ground">a transistor</abbr>
**A modern ATX PSU has a rail for 5VSB that is permanently enabled, without need to have the PSU fan spinning (noiseless), and this rail uses to have around 3A or more... for the PS3 are only needed 5v@1A so using this rail is very convenient because you can keep your PS3 in standby with the ATX supplying the 5VSB (for syscon and friends) and the fan stopped
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